Monday, November 28, 2011

Cruising Guide: Patos Island

This engaging review comes to us from club member Brent Carey.  Thanks for the advice!



It's a long haul from Seattle, but if you find yourself in the neighborhood, one of my favorite anchorages is at the north end of the San Juans, just swimming distance from Canada.  Three islands line up along the Strait of Georgia:  Matia (mah-TEE-ya), Sucia (SOO-sha), and Patos (PAT-os).  These are normally used mostly by locals from Bellingham or Blaine, though Sucia is a major anchorage for boaters from all over.  In fact, it is so popular that it tends to attract people away from the far less-visited Patos Island just about a mile away.

Patos Island is a 207-acre state park that has the distinct advantage that it has few decent anchorages.  However, those that exist are fantastic.  So, on the busiest of days, there will usually only be a half-dozen or so boats spread around the island, not including the occasional kayak.  This makes it quiet and peaceful, especially when compared to the circus at Sucia Island during the summer.  Go to Patos in the off-season during the week, and there's a good chance you'll have the whole island to yourself.

The island has three main places to spend the night:  Active Cove, Toe Point, and the north shore.  My favorite is Active Cove which features two mooring buoys, a few campsites, a couple of toilets, and no running water.  It's a bit too primitive for the RV-on-water crowd that flocks to Sucia or the big marinas.  During the summer, it is all about timing to get a buoy - get there around 11 am.  During the early and off-season, you'll generally have no problem.  It is entirely possible to squeeze a few more boats in the cove by throwing down an anchor, and occasionally a few power boaters will think that's a good idea.  Don't be that person.  Active Cove is small and it is beautiful because it is quiet and secluded.  Jamming in more boats does not mean that more people get to enjoy it.  It means that nobody does.  If you really need a place to spend the night and it's a full house at Patos, just cruise over to Sucia and you'll find a place.

When tied to a buoy in Active Cove, remember that it is named "Active" for a very good reason.  Imagine tying up in a fast-flowing stream that switches directions every couple of hours.  Tidal currents frequently run 4 kts or so, and can readily exceed 7, but much of the time they just spin you around.  It's a little disconcerting at first, but not a problem generally.  It is otherwise well-sheltered.

There are two ways into and out of the cove:  the west inlet and the east/south inlet.  Don't even try the east/south inlet.  It is too shallow and narrow for a keel boat.  You could make it during high tide, but the currents are pretty unpredictable, so don't risk it.  Just cruise around to the west end, just south of the lighthouse (inactive), and you'll have no problems.  Dozens of seals and porpoises typically convene just off of the point where the lighthouse sits.

Once settled in, you'll have to pay $10 at the pay station.  Bring walking shoes and check out the rest of the island.  Even as few people actually go to Patos, of those who go, fewer still ever venture onto the island past the picnic table.  They're missing out.

If you can't get into Active Cove, or you really don't want to share, and you know what you are doing, it is possible to anchor in a tiny cove at the other end of the island near Toe Point.  This is a really cool spot - just a tiny cove between two rocky peninsulas.  Don't even think about it unless weather is relatively calm, you have ample competent crew, you understand tides, are carrying at least two anchors, and have more anchor line than you know what to do with.  This is a lot like parking a blimp in a hangar lined with spikes.  OK, it's not quite that bad, but you don't have a large margin of error.  You'll have to drop an anchor near the cove entrance, and run a line to shore.  Of course, all of this requires some very careful maneuvering and using your dinghy to get it all set up.  It is tight, but the payoff is your own private cove.  Plan to leave at high tide so you have more room.

And, if Toe Point is occupied or you just aren't feeling that gutsy, then you can also anchor along the north shore at the east end of the island.  I've never done this because the shelf drops off pretty sharply and I've never felt like I had enough rode to do it right.  But, I do see the occasional sailboat parked there, and it is a beautiful spot with your own private beach.  So, something worth considering if the winds aren't blowing from the north.

Patos is actually a decent destination, but is more like a great place to stop for a day or two on your way somewhere else.  I have a house in Birch Bay, about 10 NM northeast of Patos, so tend to stop here on my way into the San Juans.  It would also make a great last stop on your way to Canada unless you need supplies, in which case you'll need to stop at Point Roberts or Blaine (I recommend the latter).  The nice thing is, that even though it is frequently full in the summer by the time you get there in your sailboat, it is always worth going there to check.

Patos Island Lighthouse
Active Cove - Patos Island

Active Cove - Patos Island

Active Cove - Patos Island

1 comment:

  1. Patos Island seems like a perfect getaway to escape from all the pressure and stress. Very beautiful place indeed. I enjoyed looking at those photos.

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